A quick guide to creating weed clone cuttings

Making weed clone cuttings yourself has a lot of advantages. Literally and figuratively, because home-made cuttings are free and also increase your yield because you only breed great phenotypes. Making your own cuttings is not difficult and costs nothing.

Cuttings are genetically one hundred percent the same as the plant from which you take them. They simply consist of a cut branch of a plant from which new roots have grown. A rooted cutting is, therefore, nothing more than an exact copy of the plant from which the branch was cut.

Important! : You cannot clone from a genetically modified autoflowering pant. These weed plants grow in a straight line and are not affected by photoperiods. Autoflowers transition “Automatically” from Vegetative stage to flower stage. They cannot be put back into a vegetative state and as such, they run their course and are done. Taking a clone can be done but the clone is not new growth. The clone will be the same age as the mother. If the mother is a month from the flowering stage the clone will be a month from the flowering stage as well.

Step 1: Choose a good mother

Because a cut is an exact copy of the plant where it was collected, it is extremely important to choose a good donor plant. All cuttings will perform as well or poorly as this donor plant that we also call the “mother” plant. A carefully selected mother plant is of great importance for the quality of your cuttings.

Step 2: Cutting the clones

It is important that you work clean and sterile equipment and prevent bacteria from getting into the cut. Therefore, preferably use rubber gloves and sterilize your tools in advance. You need a razor blade or a scalpel to cut your clones and a cup of clean water to keep them in after cutting.

The best clones come from fresh, young branches of the mother plant. The size of the cutting does not matter, but there must be a growing point at the top of the site. Choose young fresh green branches and cut them off about two centimetres below the third or fourth node from the growing point. Cut at a 45-degree angle, this increases the surface from which roots can grow.

Cut the lower bracts and growing points of the newly taken cuttings as close as possible to the trunk and place the cuttings in a cup with water. This will prevent air from entering the sap stream from your cuttings and ensure that the wounds that have just been made will dry out.

Step 3: Clones legs

The next step is to ensure that your clones get new roots, this is done by placing them in a medium. The medium can be anything such as a pot with soil, a block of rock wool, a special plug or simply water with sufficient oxygen. Water the medium in advance. You should also bring rock wool to the correct pH value by placing them overnight in water with a pH value of 5. The pH of untreated rock wool is namely around 8.0, and that is far too basic for weed cuttings. You simply have to moisten other plugs or cutting earth.

Take the cuttings one by one out of the water and dip them up to the bottom node from which you have removed the side branches, in cuttings gel or cuttings powder. Cuttings or cuttings contain hormones that promote the growth of roots. You can skip this step if necessary, but then your cuttings will form roots much less quickly so that you considerably reduce the chance of success.

Cuttings gel (or cuttings powder) contains hormones that allow roots to grow quickly.

Tip: Do not use food, but only water your medium with water and do not soak the medium. Nitrogen from plant foods counteracts the action of hormones from the swine gel and nutrient salts delay the absorption of moisture. Because the cutting has no roots in the beginning, it makes no sense to make the medium soaking wet. Simply moist soil or rock wool is sufficient and ensures much better and faster results.

Step 4: Light and humid air

The final step is to provide light to your clones and prevent them from drying out until they have formed their roots. As long as the cuttings have no roots yet, dehydration is the biggest threat. To keep the cuttings alive, you, therefore, place them in a propagator with a transparent lid in which you can keep the humidity high. The propagator works like a mini greenhouse, place your cuttings and spray them with a plant sprayer with water.

A propagator prevents clones from drying out as long as they do not yet have roots.

Cuttings are vulnerable and have a very slow metabolism. An HPS lamp is therefore much too powerful for them. Place your propagator under fluorescent light such as energy-saving lamps, fluorescent lighting or a special T-Neon lamp with a cool white light spectrum. The best temperature for cuttings is around 26, 27 degrees Celsius.


Because clones are so delicate, you have the best chance of success if you give them as much rest as possible. So don’t go every day to see if you already see roots, but let your propagator stand still. Only open it for a short time during the day to mist the cuttings. After a week you can carefully take the first look to see if you already see roots. After about ten days your cuttings should have roots. Don’t worry when the leaves turn yellow or wilt. Your clones live on their reserves in the leaves during these ten days, this is what causes yellowing and is completely normal.

 

After about ten days the cutting has roots and they can leave the propagator and into the earth.

Tip: Roots grow mainly at night. It is therefore a bad idea to put cuttings under 24 hours of continuous light. Give them 18 hours of light and 6 hours of dark a day, 18-6 so for cuttings that still have to take root.

Bud S. Daily

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